Recipe Khoresh Rivas (Savory Rhubarb and Bean Stew)

In Iranian cuisine, rhubarb is often used in savory dishes rather than sweet ones. The pinkish-red stalks, which cook quickly and tenderize, bring just the right amount of zest to herb-based stews like khoresh rivas. Typically, this bright and savory dish is made with red meat, but dried butter beans are the stars of this vegetarian version. Fresh herbs are used in impressive quantities in this cuisine, often standing out as the main ingredients. Mint and parsley are a common combination for the base of many stews.

Serves: 6

INGRÉDIENTS

1. 1 tablespoon plus a pinch of granulated sugar, plus more to taste
2. A pinch of saffron threads (about ¾ teaspoon)
3. ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more if needed
4. 3 large bunches parsley (about 12 ounces), tough stems trimmed, leaves and tender stems finely chopped (about 3 cups; see Tip)
5. 2 large bunches mint (about 140 g), stems trimmed, leaves finely chopped (about 5 cups; see Tip)
6. 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
7. Kosher salt and black pepper
8. ½ teaspoon ground turmeric
9. 3 (15-ounce) cans of butter beans or cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
10. 3 tablespoons lemon juice, plus more to taste
11. 2-3 large stalks of red rhubarb (about 225g), cut diagonally into 2.5cm pieces
12. Cooked rice, to serve

PRÉPARATION

1. Bring a few tablespoons of water to a boil in a small saucepan. Let the boiling water sit for 2 minutes to allow the temperature to drop slightly while you grind the saffron.
2. Using a mortar and pestle (or a small bowl and the handle of a wooden spoon), grind a pinch of sugar and the saffron into a fine powder (you should have about 1/4 teaspoon total).
3. Add 2 tablespoons of hot water, stir gently, cover, and let steep until ready to use.
4. In a large skillet, heat 1/4 cup of olive oil over medium heat. Add the parsley and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant and slightly charred, about 8 minutes.
5. Add more oil if the skillet seems too dry.
6. Add the mint and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 5 minutes.
7. Keep in mind that mint burns very quickly.
8. Remove from heat and set aside until ready to use. (You will reuse this pan.)
9. In a large, deep, covered sauté pan or Dutch oven, heat 1/4 cup of olive oil over medium-high heat.
10. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until golden brown, about 10 minutes.
11. Sprinkle with a little salt and reduce heat to medium.
12. Add the turmeric, stir, and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
13. Add the beans, season well with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring gently without breaking the beans, until the flavors blend, about 5 minutes.
14. Taste a bean and make sure it's salty to your liking. The turmeric may seem overpowering at this point, but it will soften as the stew simmers.
15. To the beans, add the parsley and mint mixture (keeping the pan handy), 2 cups of water, and half of the saffron water, and season with salt.
16. Stir gently and bring to a rapid boil. Partially cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes, until the flavors blend and the oil rises.
17. Add the remaining saffron water, lemon juice, and 1 tablespoon of sugar.
18. Stir and simmer, partially covered, for 15 minutes.
19. Taste as the stew simmers and season if necessary.
20. Add more water to the stew if needed to make it juicier, or remove the cover to reduce the liquid. There should be enough liquid to pour over the rice, but it should not be too runny. The stew can be prepared 1 day in advance up to this point.
21. Meanwhile, wipe the reserved skillet to remove any herbs.
22. Add the remaining tablespoon of olive oil to the skillet and heat over medium heat.
23. Add the rhubarb and cook until the color deepens on each side, about 2 minutes per side.
24. You're not cooking the rhubarb completely here; it should hold its shape and still have a slight crunch, as it will finish cooking in the stew.
25. Carefully place the rhubarb pieces in the stew, increase the heat to medium-low, and cook, partially covered, until the rhubarb is tender and releases its tangy flavor, about 10 minutes.
26. Do not stir the rhubarb; you want it to hold its shape and not become mushy.
27. Taste the stew as it simmers; add more lemon juice for more acidity, if needed, and more sugar for balance, if desired.
28. Serve over rice.

TIP
You can blend the herbs in batches in a food processor to chop them quickly.